Black Cat Tours’ Blog : Find out all about Parisian culture

By the 20th century, St. Germain des Prés had evolved into a haven for some of the world’s greatest literary minds. Ernest Hemingway, who immortalized his time in Paris in A Moveable Feast, famously frequented this area, along with fellow American expats like F. Scott Fitzgerald and James Joyce. Hemingway, who was widely inspired by the vibrant cafés of St. Germain, described it as a city filled with ideas and endless possibilities for creativity. I would argue that the same can still be said, as many authors live in Paris to this day.

Two of the most iconic literary cafés in the neighborhood, Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, became gathering points for these types. These establishments, which have stood the test of time, were places where writers would meet, exchange ideas, and write, write, write. Prominent thinkers from the French discipline such as Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir also cemented St. Germain des Prés as a space for philosophical debate. Sartre and de Beauvoir, pivotal figures in existentialist thought, made the area their home and workplace, spending countless hours in cafés discussing freedom, responsibility, and the human condition.

St. Germain des Prés takes its name from the Abbey of St. Germain, founded in the 6th century by Childebert I, the son of Clovis, the first Christian king of the Franks. This Benedictine abbey became one of the most important cultural and religious centers of medieval Europe. With a vast library and a reputation for producing key scholars, the abbey played a pivotal role in preserving and transmitting knowledge throughout the Middle Ages. Monks from the abbey were not only involved in religious life but also in learning, transcribing ancient texts and contributing to early scholarship in France. It can be noted that one of the threads of etymology for the word religion is religio, which means to go over, review, or in other words, study. While the abbey itself would eventually suffer from damages during the French Revolution, its mental legacy lived on, laying the foundation for what St. Germain des Prés would become: a magnet for writers, thinkers, and artists.

St. Germain des Prés also benefits from its close proximity to the Latin Quarter, historically home to the Sorbonne University. The Latin Quarter, named after the language once spoken there (well before French formalized its language structure), has been a center of learning since the Middle Ages. This closeness to the academic world of the Sorbonne additionally helped shape the mental energy of St. Germain. St. Germain des Prés thus became a bridge between academia and the bohemian lifestyle of writers and artists, enhancing its reputation as the intellectual heart of Paris.
Today, St. Germain des Prés continues to thrive as a cultural and intellectual center. The presence of bookstores, art galleries, and theaters ensures that St. Germain remains a place where culture and thought intersect. Walking through the streets of St. Germain des Prés, one can feel the weight of its intellectual and cultural history. It’s a neighborhood that has continuously evolved but remains true to its roots as a place where ideas are born, disseminated, and celebrated. From its origins as a center of learning at the Abbey of St. Germain to its role as a home for modern intellectuals and artists, St. Germain des Prés truly is the “brains” of Paris.

Painting of Elisabeth Bathory

The museum also does an excellent job of tying the vampire myth to French history and culture. Paris itself has a rich tradition of gothic literature, and the museum explores how stories of the undead have evolved over time. It touches on literary works like Charles Nodier’s The Vampire and Alexandre Dumas’s The Pale Lady, which brought the vampire archetype into French popular culture in the 19th century.

Sirgent also dives into the psychological and societal meanings behind vampire myths. He explains how these creatures have served as metaphors for everything from disease and death to desire and immortality. The museum’s displays invite visitors to think critically about why vampires continue to haunt the human imagination.

Visiting the Vampire Museum is more than just an interesting and unique amalgamation of culture—it’s an immersive experience. The museum’s dim lighting, creaking floors, and eerie ambiance create the perfect atmosphere for exploring a sinister subject. 

While the Vampire Museum is a must-see for fans of the supernatural, it’s worth noting that visits are by appointment only. Tickets include a guided tour, often conducted by Jacques Sirgent himself, whose storytelling and deep knowledge make the experience highly worthwhile. Whether you’re a lifelong vampire enthusiast or simply curious about the origins of these enduring legends, this Parisian gem promises an experience unlike any other.

Ernest Hemingway writing at a camp in Kenya

It was during this time that Hemingway wrote The Sun Also Rises (1926), a novel that encapsulates the restlessness and despair of the post-war generation. Drawing from his travels to Spain and his love of bullfighting, the book established him as a literary force.

Hemingway’s global errings continued, and with them came an expansion of his literary subjects. He spent significant time in Spain during the Spanish Civil War, experiences that informed For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940), a story of sacrifice and camaraderie. In Cuba, where he lived for over 20 years, Hemingway wrote The Old Man and the Sea (1952), a novella that earned him the Pulitzer Prize. Its portrayal of an aging fisherman’s struggle against nature encapsulated Hemingway’s fascination with resilience and dignity in the face of hardship.

Visiting the Vampire Museum is more than just an interesting and unique amalgamation of culture—it’s an immersive experience. The museum’s dim lighting, creaking floors, and eerie ambiance create the perfect atmosphere for exploring a sinister subject. 

Ernest Hemingway’s life came to a short end in 1961. He was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1954, with the committee recognizing his "mastery of the art of narrative." From the bullrings of Spain to the Gulf Stream waters of Cuba, Hemingway’s works are as much about place as they are about the human condition.

His memoir, A Moveable Feast, published posthumously, reflects on his years in Paris but also serves as a broader testament to the idea that the places and people we encounter leave deep marks that remain throughout our lives. Hemingway’s life, marked by a restlessness to explore, was the perfect canvas for his artistry, and his works continue to resonate, inspiring generations of readers and writers alike.

The café’s connection to Hemingway is immortalized in his memoir A Moveable Feast, in which he reflects on his early days in Paris as a struggling writer. But the history of Les Deux Magots stretches back even further, and its significance in Parisian culture runs deep, providing a backdrop for many of the intellectual movements that defined the 20th century.

Founded in 1812, Les Deux Magots originally functioned as a drapery store before transforming into the renowned café it is today. The name refers to two Chinese figurines—magots—that once adorned the store and remain part of its decor. By the late 19th century, Les Deux Magots had become a café, and it wasn’t long before it attracted the inspired minds of Paris. In the early 20th century, Les Deux Magots became known as the place to be for the avant-garde. Artists like Pablo Picasso and surrealist writers such as André Breton and Louis Aragon were known to frequent there, further cementing its reputation. Alongside other nearby cafés like Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots fostered the exchange of radical ideas that would influence literature, art, and philosophy long after.
 

It was in places like Les Deux Magots that Hemingway honed his craft, alongside other luminaries of the Lost Generation. In A Moveable Feast, he reflects on this time, immortalizing the café’s role in his development as a writer. Today, Les Deux Magots remains a symbol of Parisian café culture, its legacy intertwined with the creative energy of the artists and writers who once gathered there.